Monday 8 October 2012

Nano nano

Nano nano

 Nano- cosmetics, the new revolution in cosmetics, keeping us all glowing and even more gorgeous than ever. Greater UV protection, deeper skin penetration, longer-lasting effects.  Tiny little engineered particles significantly improving product performance.  Amazing!

As a manufacturer, I now by law must list my natural hair products on the CPNP European Portal, the cosmetics police.  I’m wondering whether the fact that studies show a range of adverse effects related to nano -particles such as being linked to genetic damage in mice, as part of the reason we in Europe are on the cusp of the introduction of new cosmetics legislation.

The rise of this new revolution means that by July 2013 every EU manufacturer must register whether they are using nanotechnology in their products and depending on the size of the particles, list this information also on their labels.


Consumer information or risk mitigation?. ……You decide.

Black Hair Breakage? Tips About Your Hair Products to Prevent Further Damage Today


Black Hair Breakage?  Tips About Your Hair Products to Prevent Further Damage Today
Does your hair breakage fill you with dread? Do you agonize seeing broken ends stuck to your product containers?

Hair breakage can cause both social and psychological trauma, especially when you’ve paid out oodles of time and money on the latest treatments, followed instructions avidly, and dutifully taken the greatest care of your hair.

Most people who suffer from damaged hair spend heaps of money on treatment products which are full of chemicals that for the most part function solely to keep the product stable, pretty and smelling nice. With only a fraction of ingredients actually geared towards treating damaged hair, many people have no idea about the effects of the remaining chemicals.
So if you’ve stopped combing your hair out of desperation and before you go for the big chop, read on

Shampoos
Most hair shampoos consist approximately of 35% surfactants, which allow both the oils and water in the product to mix. Good wetting technique and gentle massaging assist the surfactants to release dirt trapped in the hair.

Surfactants such as ammonium lauryl sulphate often occur as the main detergent and possess the ability to clean exceptionally well. However beware when choosing. Similar to sodium lauryl sulphate, this particular ingredient is extremely harsh and one of many known irritants that can aggravate the scalp and further encourage dry hair.

Elasticity and porosity tests are simple indicators that will tell you whether you have chosen the right shampoo. Examine the condition of your hair after shampooing and before applying the conditioner.  For example, perform a strand test by running your fingers down the hair shaft.  Do your fingers slide easily to the ends or is there resistance? If you are finding resistance, try a shampoo with a change of detergent.  

Conditioners
Hair conditioners cannot reconstruct damaged hair, but they can make it feel more manageable and improve the appearance. Damaged hair is more porous absorbing more conditioner, so taking the right choice can make all the difference. For example, minute proteins such as hydrolyzed wheat protein, penetrate the cortex and successfully increase the elasticity of the hair, whereas amino silicones, such as dimethicone are believed to be more effective on relaxer damaged hair.  This is because amino silicones are able to bond tightly to the hair shaft providing additional strength. However beware, they are so good at their jobs, they tend to be notorious for product build up, creating dull, lifeless hair. So again, rather than guessing, apply a simple strand test after conditioning to assess what type of conditioner your hair really needs.

Black hair is extremely fragile but there are several ways to help reduce your hair breakage. Start learning to assess you hair and read your labels today. Know what you are using on your hair and how it affects your success.  

Chemical Straightening


Chemical Straightening
It estimated around 70 % of Black women relax their hair.  However, alarmingly approximately  67%  of which, will suffer a side effect ranging from breakage, being the most common to shedding; to alopecia’s ; to  chemical burns. Long-term use of relaxers is also implicated as a factor in the development of Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia, and believed to be a factor in the development of severe contact dermatitis.

The Structure
The structure of hair consists of polypeptide chains connected by ends bonds and interlinked with side bonds. There are 3 types of side links: disulfide bonds, salt bonds and hydrogen bonds, all of which work together to form an incredibly strong structure.
Disulphide bonds are the strongest links and account for about a third of the hair’s strength. Hair relaxers work by altering the chemistry of these bonds.

The Process
Relaxer creams have a high alkalinity level which is required to open the hair cuticle and allow penetration of the chemicals into the shaft. Once inside, the chemical reactions break the cross bond attachment allowing the polypeptide chain to be free to adopt its new shape. Hence wise your hairdresser must continually smooth your hair to coerce the chain into the required straightened position.  Neutraliser is then applied to deactivate the chemical reaction and normalise the pH level.
Sodium hydroxide, also known as lye, is commonly found in relaxers as it by far the most effective straightener. Nevertheless, the pH of Sodium Hydroxide can exceed 13.0, whereas the normal pH of hair is 5. It is an extremely corrosive chemical also used in hair depilatories, as well as drain pipe cleaners due to its effectiveness strength.   Other chemicals used tend to be marketed as No-Lye products, using chemical such as guanidine hydroxide, but work very much on the same principle. Although these may reduce scalp irritation, they tend to have a higher pH than sodium hydroxide. They also tend not to straighten the hair as well and so retouching is required more frequently. In addition, no-lye relaxers work by removing moisture from the cortex causing the hair to become dry and porous. So overall these have the potential to be more damaging. Unfortunately for some, once the disulfide bonds are broken not all reform cross links, leaving the hair in a weaken state.
However, some of his damage can be prevented by undertaking a thorough evaluation of the hair type and condition before applying a relaxer. This should consist of 3 tests:

Elasticity Test
Strong hair exhibits good elasticity, whereas reduced elasticity indicates a pre -treatment regime is required before continuing with a relaxer.                

Strand Test
This provides an indication of the outcome, particularly in terms of elasticity. If the hair shows signs of reduced elasticity and breaks easily, then the relaxer should be delayed and a treatment programme followed.

Porosity Test
Ideally should be undertaken on different sections of the head to assess cuticle damage. Damaged cuticles feel very rough in texture as opposed to the smoothness of healthy strands.

Overall while relaxer applications can be damaging to the hair, the key to prevention is, knowing your hair type and the type of relaxer you intend using. With proper care, conditioning and understanding, you can help to avoid the pitfalls which affect the majority of women who relax their hair.    


Black Hair Growth

Black Hair Growth

How great is it to know that armed with a good technique and understanding, your own black hair can be glamorously styled without adding harsh chemicals and enabled to grow to its optimum length.
Hair is organic and our fragile afro locks are under attack every day. From the way treat our hair, to the environmental effects of pollutants and the weather.  Listed below is a brief guide to our M.O.I.S.T.U.R.E. regime for keeping natural hair in tip top condition and creating natural healthier hair over time.
Moisture
Natural hair that is fully moisturised is less likely to break prematurely as moisture renders the hair more pliable. In effect the strands are more elastic and able to glide more smoothly on each other. Invest in a good water based moisturiser. Also drink plenty of water because when you are dehydrated your hair and skin are the first to suffer.

Oils
All oils have different properties and choosing the right oil for you is sometimes a matter of trial and error. There are many hair loving oils such as avocado oil, olive oil, jojoba oil but research suggests very few actually fully penetrate the hair shaft. Coconut oil however has been shown not only penetrate the cortex, but help condition, moisturise and strengthen hair as well.

Intervention: Change the Way You Treat Your Hair
Shampooing, combing, and drying are three of the most common reasons for cuticle (outer surface if the hair) damage. Controlling these factors is by far the most critical in maintaining afro hair and getting it right, hence the numerous techniques developed all aimed at limiting the damage.  This is because when the cuticle sustains damage, the hair can never be permanently repaired.

Scalp Care
Healthy hair will not grow from a dirty scalp, so keep your scalp clean and avoid clogging with oils and dirt, as this can retard growth.

Time
Nothing to date is guaranteed to make your hair grow faster.  Overall hair length and rate is genetically programmed, so despite the promises, you may never grow hair longer than an inch. Be patient and nurture it.
Uniquely You
What you eat impacts on many aspects of your appearance. Your hair, like your body, needs a variety of nutrients so eat a balanced diet, make sure you get adequate protein and vitamins; and exercise regular.

Resting Hair
Black afro hair can not withstand too much manipulation. Allow your hair to rest without pulling on the follicles. Hair loss occurs in all ethnic populations, but in black women, many forms of alopecia are associated directly to our hair care practices.
Education
Know that great hair ultimately begins with you, with what you think, what choose to put in your body and what you choose to put on it. Become educated on the products you use on your hair. Learn to read labels and make informed choices. Arm yourself with knowledge.

Black Hair Loss

Black Hair Loss

Traction alopecia is a common form of black hair loss. While this form of alopecia is seen worldwide, and common to Sikh men and Japanese women due to their traditional hair styles, it is most widely seen in African-American women and men.
Alopecia’s  are believed to be the fifth most common dermatological complaint among Black people, with chemical and traction  alopecia’s the most common .Population studies show a prevalence of 17.1% in African schoolgirls and of 31.7% in women inflicted, with numbers steadily rising.
 There are 2 types of traction alopecia, marginal and non-marginal. Marginal traction is caused by appliances such as tight curlers and rollers, where the hair loss pattern reflects the use of these objects. Whereas a non-marginal pattern occurs created through effects like hair buns creating hair loss in the area where the bun actually sits. This type of alopecia for this reason is often seen in nurses.

Causes
Traction alopecia is mainly caused by damage to the dermal papilla and hair follicle, through steady pressure over time. Normally induced by various hairstyling practices (e.g. use of braids, hair rollers, weaves, twists, locks, or "cornrows") Cornrows are most frequently blamed due to the repeated steady high pressure overtime.
The pulling causes hair to loosen from its roots; however, hair loss occurs secondary to follicular inflammation and atrophy. Often the loss is symmetric and along the hairline adjacent to the temples.
Traction Alopecia can also occur due to over processing of the hair. Chemical treatments which use products such as dyes, bleaches, or relaxers can damage the keratin structure rendering the hair extremely fragile.  The hair then falls out very easily with brushing or combing.
A form of scarring alopecia also may occur in post-menopausal women, associated with inflammation of hair follicles and subsequent scarring
Signs
Individuals usually complain of itching and dandruff at first which is usually followed by patchy areas of hair loss. Other signs may include:
Scalp shows signs inflammation with scales, and pustules.
Hair loss may be symmetric
With bun alopecia, hair loss may be in the occipital area.
With cornrowing, the area most commonly affected is that adjacent to the region that is braided.

Treatment
In the initial stages, this hair loss is reversible but with prolonged traction, once scaring occurs and hair follicles are damaged beyond repair, alopecia can be permanent.
Hair styles that put unnecessary strain on the hair root must be changed for looser, less traumatic hair styles.
If you are going to wear your hair braided then it is advisable request that your stylist does not pull or plait them tightly and likewise hairdressers specialising in braids and locks should warn their clients of the possible dangers of prolonged tension.
To summarise the key to stopping traction alopecia is detecting it early. African-American women, who suspect they may be vulnerable to traction alopecia should change their hair styles and seek professional advice.

Licorice and Pregnancy and Hair Loss and Everything Else.

Licorice and Pregnancy and Hair Loss and Everything Else.

A recent study with eight-year-olds showed those whose mothers ate licorice while pregnant, had levels of the hormone cortisol up to a third higher than those whose mothers never. This has sparked several warnings for pregnant women to take care when eating liquorice, namely because cortisol is linked to diabetes, high blood pressure and obesity.

Licorice or liquorice as it is known in the U.K. is a legume native to Southern Europe and part of Asia. The root of the plant has been used for more than 4000 years, producing a sweet glycyrrhizic tasting material, as well as Glabridin. These medicinal plants were used as flavourings, sweeteners and as herbal medicines.

However it is the glycyrrhizic acid which is the most studied active constituent of licorice and used in many topical preparations due to its anti-inflammation, anti-ulcer, and antivirus properties.

For example:

Medicinal Uses
It is used as a major therapeutic agent to treat chronic viral hepatitis and allergic dermatitis.  Also used as a chest expectorant because of its steroid actions, is able to ease chest irritation and spasms.

Glabridin has been reported to aid  antimicrobial activity, estrogenic and anti-proliferative activity against breast cancer cells.

Cosmetic Uses
The antibacterial properties make it particularly suitable for use in deodorant. It is also used to help reduce UV absorption, relieve inflammation, prevent bacterial growth and reduce the appearance of skin discoloration.  Therefore can be found in many skin preparations aimed at soothing dry, irritated skin.

Hair Loss
Due to its ability to regulate estrogen hormone level, it has also been found to be helpful in hair loss restoration. Conversely, a study using rats proved this acid to be also effective in halting hair growth, giving rise to speculation about a different form of epilator.

Side Effects
However, with most treatments there are also side effects the most common being an association with high blood pressure and water retention due to the reduced cortisol metabolism.

So given all the research, that innocent piece of licorice may not be all it seems.


Ten Unwanted Chemicals


Ten Unwanted Chemicals
1. Imidazolidinyl Urea and Diazolidinyl Urea — These are the most commonly used preservatives after the parabens. They are well established as a primary cause of contact dermatitis (American Academy of Dermatology). Two trade names for these chemicals are Germall II and Germall 115. Neither of the Germall chemicals have a good antifungal, and must be combined with other preservatives. Germall 115 releases formaldehyde at just over 10°. These chemicals are toxic.
2. Methyl and Propyl and Butyl and Ethyl Paraben — Used as inhibitors of microbial growth and to extend shelf life of products. Widely used even though they are known to be toxic. Have caused  many allergic reactions and skin rashes. Methyl paraben combines benzoic acid with the methyl group of chemicals.
3. Petrolatum — (petroleum, mineral oils, Vaseline) is mineral oil jelly, and mineral oil causes a lot of problems when used on the skin  e.g .photosensitivity (i.e., promotes sun damage). Petroleum tends to interfere with the body's own natural moisturizing mechanism, leading to dryness and chapping. You are being sold a product that creates the very conditions it claims to alleviate. Manufacturers use petrolatum because it is unbelievably cheap.
4. Propylene Glycol — Ideally this is a vegetable glycerin mixed with grain alcohol, both of which are natural. Usually it is a synthetic petrochemical mix used as a humectant. Has been known to cause allergic and toxic reactions.
5. PVP/VA Copolymer — A petroleum-derived chemical used in hairsprays, wavesets and other cosmetics. It can be considered toxic, since particles may contribute to foreign bodies in the lungs of sensitive persons.
6. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate — This synthetic substance is used in shampoos for its detergent and foam-building abilities. It causes eye irritations, skin rashes, hair loss, scalp scurf similar to dandruff, and allergic reactions. It is frequently disguised in pseudo-natural cosmetics with the parenthetic explanation "comes from coconut."
7. Stearalkonium Chloride — A chemical used in hair conditioners and creams. Causes allergic reactions. Stearalkonium chloride was developed by the fabric industry as a fabric softener, and is a lot cheaper and easier to use in hair conditioning formulas than proteins or herbals, which do help hair health.
8. Synthetic Colours — The synthetic colours used to supposedly make a cosmetic "pretty" should be avoided at all costs. They will be labelled as FD&C or D&C, followed by a colour and a number. Example: FD&C Red No. 6 / D&C Green No. 6. Synthetic colours are believed to be cancer-causing agents.
9. Triethanolamine — Often used in cosmetics to adjust the pH, and used with many fatty acids to convert acid to salt (stearate), which then becomes the base for a cleanser. TEA causes allergic reactions including eye problems, dryness of hair and skin, and could be toxic if absorbed into the body over a long period of time.
10.Peg Ingredients
Believed to be carcinogenic and responsible for some contact dermatitis.